Refinement of the material makes perfect structures. Plywood for example also causes headache problems like tearout. Any woodworker who has ever used it can speak of its woes, which can ruin a high-quality project. So why to plywood tearout repair? Let’s find out right below
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Plywood “tearout”: These are rough, jagged edges that can spoil a high-quality project.
This is tearout. Don’t do this!
How to repairing veneer plywood tear-out
To get rid of tearout, we need to adjust two things in that equation: how well the fibers are supported, or, how intense the impact to the fibers is. We’ll do both in the steps below:
1. Choose the right blade. Choose the right face.
On the table saw, you might not need an expensive specialty blade, though they can help. Just make sure you’re using a high-quality combination blade with at least forty tooth blade. For a circular saw, you can easily pick up a plywood blade for $15 at any home center, and it will work magic on your cuts.
2. Always use a zero-clearance insert.
No matter what tool you’re using, the best way to reduce tearout is to surround the blade or bit with a zero-clearance surface. A zero-clearance insert creates the smallest amount of open area around the blade to support the wood fibers surrounding the cut as much as possible. This is equally important on the band saw, drill press, miter saw, or table saw.
When you cutting, please raise the blade to the appropriate height to cut to size. By creating this scoring relief cut, you’re reducing the impact to the fibers, keeping them where they belong.
Whenever you’re making furniture quality cuts, or perhaps you’re working with melamine or some large panels, tackle the cut in a two-step process.
Each of these methods work, so try them with a scrap of your particular sheet of plywood and tool/blade setup to see which gives you the best results.
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𝗙𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘅 hope the above information is useful to you.
Thanks for your time
Best regards,
Fomex Greenwood
